Layers of History in Antequera

Layers of History in Antequera

You know a place is old when the Romans named it Antikaria (ancient city). The current town of Antequera in southern Spain, home to about 40,000 people, is known as “the heart of Andalucia” for its position midway between the cities of Seville, Malaga, Grenada, and Cordoba. We spent the week before Easter there looking… Read More

Seville in Photos

Seville in Photos

For more than 500 years, Seville was ruled by Muslim caliphs and emirs. Since 1248, it has been ruled by Catholic kings. The intersection of those two eras and cultures can be seen most clearly in the center of Seville. The city’s massive cathedral, the third-largest Catholic church in the world, is built on the… Read More

Beautiful Orange-Scented Seville

Beautiful Orange-Scented Seville

OK, I know I said last month that Rome is one of the best cities in the world for strolling. But I think Seville may be even better. There’s plenty of history and good food and wine. Many streets in the center of the city are pedestrian-only, so you don’t have to dodge cars as… Read More

Battle of the Bands

Battle of the Bands

Our last day in Grazalema was a big day for the village—not because of our impending departure but because it was the 12th annual “Encuentro de Bandas de Musica” or, as we call it, Battle of the Bands. Town bands from Grazalema and two other local villages took over the main plaza in Grazalema to… Read More

Photos of Grazalema

Photos of Grazalema

Pictures from our two-week stay in our favorite village in southern Spain—mountain views, white houses, scampering sheep, fountains with faces, and Chris and Melissa looking goofy in various ways.       Read More

Returning to One of Our Favorite Places in the World

Returning to One of Our Favorite Places in the World

Nine years ago, with Melissa on crutches because of a badly sprained ankle, we came to the southern Spanish village of Grazalema in search of pretty scenery for her to recuperate in. We were charmed by this compact white village of 2,000 people, perched high on a shelf above a rolling green valley and ringed… Read More

Last Photos from Mallorca

Last Photos from Mallorca

Our last stops in Mallorca were the towns of Pollenca and Alcudia, which sit inland near the heads of twin bays in the northeast of the island. So strategic was the location that the Romans built a sizable city there, called Pollentia (whose ruins, confusingly, are next to modern-day Alcudia rather than Pollenca). The area… Read More

“A Cold Country with a Hot Sun”

“A Cold Country with a Hot Sun”

It’s a spring morning in southern Spain. I’m wearing two shirts and a fleece and sitting under two blankets on the sofa as Chris tries to get a fire going in the fireplace. We slept on fleece-y sheets under two comforters last night. There is no central heat, only very feeble electric space heaters. This… Read More

Mallorca Mountains

Mallorca Mountains

In summer, tourists flock to Mallorca for its beaches and bays. This time of year, we came to Mallorca for its mountains. The Tramuntana range runs for 90 kilometers (56 miles) along Mallorca’s northern coast, reaching heights of 1,445 meters (3,757 feet) above the sea. After staying in the village of Valldemossa, in the middle… Read More

Valldemossa: Saints, Sinners, and Sheep

Valldemossa: Saints, Sinners, and Sheep

Often when we plan to travel somewhere new, it’s hard to know where to go because the guide books make so many places sound good. That’s been the case with the Spanish island of Mallorca (pronounced mah-yorka) in the Mediterranean Sea. Do we focus on the mountain villages of the northwest or base ourselves near… Read More

Palma de Mallorca

Palma de Mallorca

Much as we love Rome, we’re eager to work on our Spanish. So after our housesit in Rome ended, we headed for Spain. Thanks to a tip from one of Chris’s colleagues at CBO, we decided to explore the Spanish Mediterranean island of Mallorca. The island is a huge summer beach destination, but in March… Read More